perfect pasta
One of the outcomes of penning these various missives is that I do occasionally end-up practising what I preach, or even preaching what I’ve been practising for some time. This was certainly the case in the earlier ‘when less is more’ post where I poked my nose into why our diets have become so much poorer, even as we have become more wealthy, and how exactly our food is now killing us, not through its lack, but by its abundance? Furthermore, during the investigative process, I was alarmed by just how unhinged modern eating has become and how society grasps at novelties and fads as solutions to our dietary ills.
Rather than being an intractable problem beyond the wit of man, all we need to do is to re-engage with our food, appreciate the simple pleasures of cooking, enjoy the company that often accompanies it and re-educate ourselves in taste and nutrition. As a single bloke living on his jack-jones I assure you rocket science it ain’t. However, I will admit to not being particularly adventurous in the kitchen-department, choosing to prepare and enjoy a somewhat limited number of recipes usually centred around the relatively humble and ubiquitous pasta. Everything about pasta has been tailored to meet the needs of today’s time-pressed individuals. I can select at a glance which recipe suits my schedule, or what’s in my kitchen cupboards, and each dish proves that fast-food doesn’t have to involve pizza or chicken nuggets.
So, stopping-short of hectoring you into deleting the Deliveroo app from your smarty phone here’s my own guide to equipping yourself with the knowledge to potentially change your diet and perhaps even your life.
Pasta is a simple food and the one important rule to remember is that good ingredients are essential for good pasta. I’ve never made my own pasta and don’t intend to start now but only choose pasta that is 100% durum wheat: ‘pasta di semoladi grano duro’ as apparently the Italians say. Also, there’s a popular misconception that fresh is best, it isn’t, and dry pasta’s ace. Egg pasta has a smoother, silkier texture than plain pasta, which has a firmer bite, but neither is better per se, just different. Generally speaking, long thin pasta ribbons should be used in conjunction with oil-based sauces, thicker strands pared with cream, cheese or eggs and pasta tubes/shapes with rich meat sauces, robust vegetables or within oven-baked dishes.
Once bought, the key to preparing perfect pasta is to start with the right pot and use the right tools. A large inexpensive aluminium one is ideal, as it conducts heat evenly and is easier to lift when full of boiling water. A similarly large aluminium colander is also essential and don’t, upon pain of death, use a sieve which will reduce the cooked pasta to a sticky, sickly mass. A large, wide frying pan ensures rapid cooking and evaporation of the accompanying sauce and, along with a long-handled wooden stirring-spoon, completes the tool box. And when it’s boiling, remember to take the package-stated cooking-time as a guideline only – it’s essential you taste to pasta to ensure the correct ‘bite’ and no, don’t throw a strand on the ceiling to see if it sticks. Undercooked and your pasta will taste chalky and of raw flour, overcooked and it’ll still be there when everyone’s supposedly finished.
In an Italian home, pasta is always served from a large bowl set in the middle of the table, and if time/opportunity allows I see no reason in breaking with the familial tradition. As soon as the pasta and sauce are together, they should be tossed immediately and a large wooden fork and spoon will serve you best. It’s vital you do not over-drain the pasta and it should remain slippery so it can ‘take’ the sauce properly. Freshly ground black pepper and similarly fresh grated hard cheese are considered basic necessities, though the latter’s use on fish-based pasta sauce is considered by many a heresy!
Perfect for impromptu entertaining, pasta really is the original and most versatile convenience food and a great last-minute supper for one or a satisfying meal for the whole family can be on the table in virtually the time it takes to boil water. To ensure delicious success every time here are my kitchen-cupboard ‘staples’: a selection of dried pasta shapes and varieties; parmesan cheese; eggs; a lemon; a basil pot on the window ledge along with fresh parsley; cans of anchovies for seasoning and taste; a tube of anchovy paste; cans of tomatoes; tomato puree; frozen peas; a jar of black olives and one of capers; crushed chilli flakes; fresh garlic; olive oil (one for cooking and an extra virgin oil for seasoning and drizzling); onions; coarse sea salt. Oh, and most importantly many bottles of red and white wine!
Phew, told you it was easy-ish and here are the Ten Pasta Commandments:
- Buy good quality, 100% durum wheat pasta
- Use a large pot full of boiling water, and keep it boiling
- Salt the water with a generous hand, too much rather than too little
- Start timing when the water returns to the boil
- Stir the pasta often and don’t wander off as it will stick
- Drain immediately, but not too thoroughly
- Have the sauce and a warmed bowl ready and waiting
- Don’t over-sauce. The sauce should moisten, not drown, the pasta and you want to taste the pasta as well as the sauce
- Judicious seasoning with salt and pepper truly makes the difference between good and great dishes
- Remember this Italian saying, “Dove c’e pasta, c’e speranza” – Where there’s pasta, there’s hope!
Salut!
